Jocelyn's Cathedral Gown -- A Knight's Tale

My Research for this costume


I'm modifying view D of Butterick 4457 for the overjacket. Everything had to be lengthened, the collar removed, the neck converted to a v-neck, a back seam added, and the seam on the sleeves moved, but the pintucks are pretty much in the right place. Keep in mind that the bust on my dress dummy is too high. I didn't bother to draft out the back darts, though it wouldn't have been difficult. I changed the sleeve to a two part sleeve, so there are now two seams; one under the arm and one in the front of the arm. The sleeves ended up far too wide and had to be taken in about two inches at the elbow.

The underdress is plain old Simplicity 7964, lengthened to floor length and modified a bit to give the skirt more flare. It's silk pongee I found on sale, dyed with Kelly Green RIT and overdyed in a weak taupe RIT bath and then tea dyed it later. It never seems to get dark enough.

For the overjacket, I started with cream dupioni from and cut it into three equal pieces. Everything is dyed with RIT dye and a large tub. The bottom is Royal Blue. The center is 1/8 tsp powder Royal Blue to every 1 tbsp liquid Wine. The top is 2 tsp Taupe power, 1 tsp Golden Yellow powder, and 1/8 tsp Royal Blue powder. The bottom middle image is wet fabric, the others are dry. Like the original dress, my colors look different in every room of my apartment and they don't photograph particularly well.